That Claudio Aprile is a gastronomic wunderkind is undisputed. And if anyone deserved a six-star rating in a five-star system, it would be Aprile, whom we awarded this one-time accolade in 2003 (when we were writing for a different publication) for his stellar pan-Asian food sensations at Senses. He could serve you broken shards of glass and we're pretty sure it would be delicious.
But last year, Aprile left the corporate bosom of Henry Wu's Soho Metropolitan hotel chain to partner with restaurateur du jour Hanif Harji (Blowfish, Doku 15, Kultura) to launch another T.O. dining destination. After years of wowing all our senses at the molecular level, what could Aprile possibly do for an encore? Colborne Lane.
Tucked away in the historical 'hood of St. Lawrence, Aprile's Colborne Lane is a new kind of food laboratory filtered through a refreshingly rustic sensibility. As we've come to expect, the menu follows the small-plates, tasting menuÐlike format – which is great for sharing. But with food this spectacular, be prepared to slap your partner's hand as they reach across the table for a try.
An ultra-tender lobster ceviche ($18) is set off by tender saffron potatoes, smoked mayonnaise and puffed-corn noodles (think Cheetos for the gods). Achingly tender stir-fried squid ($15) is married with caramelized peanut, Asian pear, Chinese sausage and spiced mango. Who else but Mother Nature can combine such disparate elements and make them work so symbiotically? The low-key sweetness of a puree of lily bulb topped with blueberries partners perfectly with toothsome beef tenderloin ($24) over a smoked-beer jus. No less inspired are caramelized root vegetables ($15) whose flavours jump out after a dunking in cauliflower purée nipped with aged gouda.
A lobster bisque ($16), with curry-spiked mussels and crème fra”che, is a little too muted. But a crispy-skinned striped bass ($21) is utterly sublime, flattered by an earthy and delightful miso/black-truffle broth and shimeji mushrooms, turnips and soy beans. And we can't get enough of the ragu of smoky chorizo, earthy hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and gnocchi that underlie a moist rock hen ($18).
The lamb ribeye crusted with dried olives and pumpernickel ($23) is an unusual treat, but its garnishes – caramelized eggplant, mint chutney, toasted-cumin rosti and green-tea yogurt – play a big part of the savoury story.
What elevates a stunningly tender tea-smoked squab breast ($26) to an entirely different flavour spectrum are two hugely inventive chocolate sauces, one scented with hibiscus, the other with smoked cardamom. Not to mention spiced-quince crepe and foie gras.
Famous for his pork, Aprile's exquisitely tender hoisin-braised pork belly ($19) is among the best in town. And if a slightly dry tenderloin doesn't measure up to his Olympian standards, its accompanying risotto cake and spicy black-bean sauce more than compensate.
Desserts mystify equally, reaching the same exalted heights as dinner. An unorthodox spiced-chocolate fondue ($11) stuns with an amalgam of chocolate snow (think granita), mango and coffee hazelnut sponge. And a creamy lemon curd tart ($10), sided with a whisper-subtle elderflower foam, is as fresh and fluffy as it gets, sitting in a shatteringly delicate pastry. But the pièce de résistance is a semi-freddo-like lavender and honey parfait ($10), holding a delicious secret: sweet mulled figs.
Having worked with Ferran Adria, one of the leading figures in cutting-edge molecular gastronomy at Spain's El Bulli, Aprile has managed to absorb elements of that highly experimental type of cuisine and ground them in real-food principles. So why didn't he follow the lead of other local gastro-superstars and name the restaurant after himself? “All restaurants are a collaboration,” he says. “Naming the restaurant after myself would feel like I was taking away from the efforts of the staff and kitchen.” A typically modest remark from a chef who has certainly earned his bragging rights. EMAIL LETTERS@EYEWEEKLY.COM