Last December, a catastrophic fire nearly razed Sassafraz to the $1,000-per-square-foot ground. What began in a basement kitchen as a common grease fire nearly engulfed the swank eatery, causing $5 million in damages. Many watched in horror (others with schadenfreude) as Yorkville’s grand poobah of it-spots smouldered. And, as time ticked by, there was talk that this A-list magnet would never reopen, leaving land-speculating sharks to muscle for yet another prohibitively priced condo project.

Nearly 10 months after the blaze that left nothing but the shell of a historic 94-year-old building, Sassafraz reopened its doors — and we couldn’t be more thrilled. What was once just a nice-to-be-seen-at meet market, serving mediocre food (at best), is now food-aficionado heaven. For the first time since 1997, Sassafraz has transcended its sneering reputation as a tourist trap into what we think could very well be one of Toronto’s Top 10 dining destinations. Snobs rejoice!
Except for the cleverly rethought private function room on the second level and a baby grand in the lounge for jazz nights, Sassafraz looks pretty much the same as it did prior to the disaster: it still beams with natural light that sets off the opalescent seating, giving it the sheen of a priceless South Sea pearl. And the addition of a 30-foot living green wall and water feature only adds to its lofty la-la-land appeal. Is that Paris and Tinkerbell in the corner?

Without question, the most important makeover is the subtly French, tightly focused menu of newly hired executive chef Bradley Macdonald. Quality of this calibre is exceptional, even by Yorkville standards. Appetizers are flat-out stellar. Even a traditional niçoise salad ($15) surprises, not because of its gorgeously seared, plump slabs of sashimi-grade tuna or its incredible anchovy vinaigrette and perfect pairing of boiled quail egg halves. What’s truly astonishing is the lengths that chef goes to, peeling the skin off the cherry tomatoes.

A bison carpaccio ($16) is equally extraordinary, replacing the typical accompaniment of shavings of pecorino or parmesan with a sharp, cheddar-like goat cheese. Could it get any better? Uh huh. A foie gras ($22) done two ways is beyond unbelievable: a nicely portioned disk of perfectly seared duck liver arrives on a specially designed plate with a flavourful flourish of rhubarb mustard. Beside it, Macdonald shows he knows his fowl fat well, providing a contrast of cool, ultra-smooth pâté on shortbread.

We pinch ourselves in disbelief that this flawless meal is being served up at Sassafraz, delivered by an impeccably trained service staff. And it gets better with every course. A gorgeous piece of lamb tenderloin ($39) melts in the mouth, and its savoury side, an eggplant croquant (read: fritter), is utterly sublime. So, too, is the sablefish ($34), a.k.a. black cod, a succulently meaty and perfectly prepared white fish, riding high atop a fantastic “hash” of rutabaga and a generous slab of lobster.
For dessert, Macdonald has put together a limited, but nice, variety of artisan cheeses. All items are $5, and come with champagne grapes, a selection of myriad sliced fruit and warm, house-made apricot bread. Be careful though: portions are way more generous than the 40-gram description would imply. If it’s sweets you desire, try the sweet risotto ($10), an innovative take on rice pudding, coupled with a scoop of espresso ice-cream and a candied hazelnut teardrop. An apple tart ($10) is, to put it simply, pure apple-y goodness.

It’s hard to believe, given its enduring popularity, that it has taken a decade and a terrible fire to get Sassafraz to this level — but as cliché as it sounds, better late than never. With nary a shred of criticism to stick it with, the phoenix-like resurrection of Sassafraz is not only the reopening of a restaurant, it is the reinvention of the gold standard of dining in this town. Burn, baby, burn!